Pagani Design PD-1688 V2 Review – Japanese Automatic with Domed Sapphire Under $100
The Pagani Design PD-1688 Version 2 enters a crowded space with a familiar silhouette, but distinguishes itself through color and execution rather than reinvention. Positioned as an Aqua Terra–inspired design, this updated version leans into a vivid gradient sky-blue dial that shifts dramatically under changing light.
Stainless steel construction, a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, and an automatic movement round out a specification sheet that feels ambitious at a sub-$100 price point before tax. In this segment of the market, small differences in execution often matter more than raw specifications. The appeal here is not subtlety. It is energy. Version 2 retains the architectural case of its predecessor but pairs it with a dial treatment that transforms the watch’s entire personality.
Design & Case
The PD-1688 V2 measures 40.7mm in diameter and 11.8mm in thickness, with a lug-to-lug length of 46mm made possible by inverted end links. Lug width is 20mm, tapering to 18mm at the clasp. On the wrist, the footprint feels planted yet controlled, aided by lugs that turn downward despite their wide stance.
The case architecture is layered and deliberate. A polished fixed bezel sits slightly recessed into the case, supporting a subtly domed sapphire crystal. Below it, a tall horizontally brushed case flank reinforces structural depth. A polished lip of the screw-down exhibition caseback is visible beneath the flank, visually anchoring the watch from below. We’ve covered several Pagani Design watches before, and this one continues the brand’s established design language.
Transitions are defined by a crisp 45-degree polished bevel that bridges the brushed flank and brushed lug hoods. Those lug hoods narrow inward toward the bracelet end links, creating a subtle geometric complexity that comes alive as light moves across the surfaces. The overall impression is architectural and structured, with defined planes rather than softened edges.
Movement & Crown
On the right side sits a signed screw-down crown measuring 5.5mm in diameter. The threading is wide and notchy, offering secure grip and reinforcing the watch’s sporty character. Crown integration is clean, maintaining the case’s flow without disrupting its lines.
Inside, the PD-1688 V2 is powered by the Miyota 8215 automatic movement. This Japanese self-winding caliber operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour, features 21 jewels, and offers a stated power reserve of approximately 41 hours. Through the mineral crystal exhibition caseback, the movement is visible in its standard, undecorated form.
The 8215 remains a dependable, workhorse movement within the affordable mechanical segment. It prioritizes reliability and accessibility over embellishment, and in this context, it serves its purpose without complication.
Bezel
The polished fixed bezel plays a visual rather than functional role. Slightly recessed into the case, it frames the dial and crystal cleanly while reflecting light in contrast to the predominantly brushed surfaces elsewhere.
The bezel’s polish adds a degree of refinement, preventing the watch from leaning too heavily into pure tool-watch territory. It acts as a visual separator between the case architecture and the dial, enhancing the layered construction without introducing unnecessary ornamentation.
The absence of a rotating mechanism keeps the case profile streamlined, emphasizing symmetry and structural clarity. It reinforces the watch’s sport-dress orientation rather than diver-specific functionality.
Bracelet
The bracelet integrates seamlessly into the case thanks to inverted end links that maintain the 46mm lug-to-lug measurement. The lugs fold inward toward the end links, and the brushing direction across the lug hoods aligns precisely with that of the bracelet, creating a cohesive flow.
This is a classic three-link bracelet with brushed outer links and a wide polished center link. The polished center introduces visual contrast and depth, balancing the brushed case surfaces. The taper from 20mm to 18mm keeps proportions sporty without appearing bulky.
Links are assembled using push pins. Tolerances are commendable at this price, with minimal visible gaps and solid articulation. The bracelet drapes naturally on the wrist, aided by consistent link geometry. The butterfly clasp features an overlay design, folding securely into place. However, the absence of half links means sizing adjustments may require some compromise.
Crystal & Dial
A slightly domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating caps the dial. Under angled light, the coating effectively reduces glare while allowing the dial’s vibrant tone to remain prominent.
Beneath the crystal, a brushed rehaut slopes inward, guiding the eye toward the gradient blue dial. The color transitions from bright sky blue at the center to a deep navy, nearly black, at the outer edge. The gradient is well executed, creating a dynamic visual shift as the wrist moves.
A printed minute track runs cleanly around the periphery. Applied hour markers vary deliberately: rectangular batons at 6, 9, and 12, and triangular batons for the remaining hours. All indices are edged in a dark, almost black chrome finish, enhancing contrast against the blue background. The same treatment carries through to the hands.
Branding remains balanced. An applied Pagani logo with “Pagani Design” sits beneath 12, while “Automatic” and “Water Resistant 100 m” appear above six. At 3 o’clock, a beveled date window is cleanly cut without additional framing, proportioned to remain practical without dominating the dial.
In low light, lume performance shows noticeable improvement over earlier iterations. The hands and indices emit a strong blue glow that is brighter and more evenly applied than previous versions, maintaining legibility well beyond the initial charge.
Summary
The Pagani Design PD-1688 V2 refines an already established formula through bold dial execution and thoughtful finishing. At 40.7mm with a compact 46mm lug-to-lug, it balances wrist presence with wearability. The architectural case, integrated bracelet flow, and gradient dial combine to create a watch that feels visually dynamic without sacrificing structural coherence.
While the Miyota 8215 remains a straightforward mechanical choice, the sapphire crystal, improved lume, and finishing details elevate the overall experience. Version 2 does not attempt to disguise its inspiration, but it does inject personality through color and proportion.
For those seeking a vibrant, sport-leaning automatic with layered case architecture at an accessible price, the PD-1688 V2 offers a compelling and visually engaging option.
Pagani Design PD-1688 V2 Specifications
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Model | Pagani Design PD-1688 V2 |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Case Diameter | 40.7mm |
| Thickness | 11.8mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 46mm |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Bracelet Taper | 20mm to 18mm |
| Bezel | Polished fixed bezel |
| Crystal | Slightly domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating |
| Crown | 5.5mm, signed, screw-down |
| Caseback | Screw-down exhibition, mineral crystal window |
| Water Resistance | 100 meters |
| Movement | Miyota 8215 automatic |
| Beat Rate | 21,600 vph |
| Jewels | 21 |
| Power Reserve | ~41 hours |
| Dial | Gradient sky blue to dark blue |
| Lume | Blue lume on hands and indices |
| Price | Sub-$100 before tax |
