Sugess 1963 Review – A Faithful Mechanical Chronograph with a Vintage Racing Soul

Few budget mechanical chronographs carry a reputation as widespread as the Sugess 1963, and revisiting it through this homage variant reminds us why the formula still works. This model leans hard into vintage racing cues while packing impressive specifications into a sub-$120 package. The watch arrived with the familiar promise of Sugess refinement and QC, but also with real mechanical pedigree thanks to its fully manual Seagull ST1901 chronograph movement. Add in a domed synthetic sapphire crystal, stainless-steel architecture, and thoughtful aesthetic touches, and it becomes immediately clear why this reference remains an AliExpress celebrity.

Sugess 1963 Mechanical Chronograph

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Design & Case

The Sugess 1963 is shaped around classic mid-century racing chronograph proportions. From above, it’s defined by long, elegant, sharply tapered lugs that angle decisively downward, giving the watch a fast, poised stance on the wrist. Case measurements fall into the vintage sweet spot: 40 mm diameter, 12.9 mm thickness, 47 mm lug-to-lug, and a practical 20 mm lug width.

In profile, the case is a continuous polished form — no segmented breaks, no aggressive faceting — just a smooth, uninterrupted curvature. Above the polished flank sits a fixed bezel supporting a domed synthetic sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. The crystal pulls reflections off the dial and reinforces the vintage character Sugess is aiming for. Below, the lip of the screw-down exhibition caseback adds another polished layer, completing a stacked silhouette that feels deliberate and cohesive.

On the right, the watch features a tall 6.4 mm push-pull crown, star-signed and flanked by long pump pushers. The ergonomics favour tactile engagement: the crown is easy to grasp and wind, and the elongated pushers offer reassuring leverage. Despite its polished case and slender lugs, the watch hugs the wrist cleanly thanks to deep lug curvature, making it a comfortable wear for extended periods.

Movement & Crown

The star here is the Seagull ST1901 — a mechanical, manually wound, column-wheel, horizontal-clutch chronograph. It features 21 jewels, runs at 21,600 bph, and delivers a claimed ~45-hour power reserve. The example reviewed also includes a swan-neck fine regulator, a detail associated with more precise adjustment. Sugess offers a non–swan-neck version as well, saving roughly $25 if the refinement isn’t essential.

Operation is pure mechanical theatre. Winding the crown feels traditionally granular, and once the movement is tensioned, the chronograph delivers exactly the pusher sensation enthusiasts expect: a snappy, progressive start/stop at two, followed by a crisp, well-defined reset at four. The sub-dial layout maintains historical correctness: running seconds at 9 o’clock, 30-minute counter at 3, both rendered in punchy contrasting colours that aid functional clarity.

The exhibition caseback is part of the appeal. Fully screwed down and marked 50 m / 5 bar water resistance, it offers an unobstructed view of the ST1901’s levers, wheels, and column wheel — mechanical choreography on full display.

Strap

The watch arrives on a perforated rally-style leatherette strap, weighing just 69g with the watch head attached. The strap’s outer face is soft, with clean perforations and tidy colour-matched stitching running the length of the edges. There are no loose threads, and hole finishing is neat. Flip it over, and the beige lining looks and feels leather-like, stitched with the same consistency. There is no “genuine leather” stamp, so the safe interpretation is high-quality leatherette — a practical choice that remains comfortable and easy to maintain, especially in warm weather.

Convenience is handled well: quick-release spring bars come fitted, making strap changes painless. At 20mm lug width, options are plentiful — canvas, suede, or a true leather rally strap if you want to lean into motorsport aesthetics. Sugess also includes a steel mesh bracelet in the kit when buyers choose the leatherette strap option, adding versatility straight out of the box.

The strap hardware is more refined than expected at this price. The underside is brand-signed “Sugess,” and the stainless-steel pin buckle carries the same branding — subtle touches that give the package a cohesive feel.

Crystal & Dial

Above the dial sits a slightly domed synthetic sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment that flashes green to purple when angled toward the light. Beneath it lies a dial designed around legibility and period-correct visual balance. This example features the beige–gold panda configuration: creamy main dial, paired with black recessed sub-dials.

A black tachymeter ring surrounds the dial, crisply printed in white, accented by a red-orange sector near 3 o’clock — a vintage racing flourish marking a high-speed band for quick reading. Inside it, the seconds/minute chapter is cleanly executed, supporting a set of chrome-edged baton hour markers, each lume-filled.

The sub-dials maintain functional clarity through colour distinction: the 30-minute counter at 3 uses an orange hand, while the running seconds at 9 use a yellow one. The main timekeeping hands are baton-style, lume-filled and proportional, while the central chronograph seconds hand is a bright orange lightning-bolt shape that cuts across the dial with strong contrast.

Branding is restrained: Sugess in cursive beneath 12, and Mechanical Chronograph above 6. Lume performance is described as good but not diver-grade — bright on charge, with moderate longevity fitting for the price. Under chronograph operation, the central seconds hand sweeps at six ticks per second, characteristic of the ST1901 architecture and reinforcing the mechanical charm of the piece.

Summary

The Sugess 1963 continues to prove why it’s a staple in the budget mechanical chronograph world. It delivers elegant lines, authentic proportions, and a movement with real horological legitimacy — all while staying under $120 before tax. The domed sapphire, polished case, crisp dial work, and large exhibition back contribute to a package that feels cohesive and thoughtfully executed. Check out other affordable pieces in the $50 – $200 price range.

There are small compromises, as expected at this price, but the overall value proposition is strong. If what you want is a vintage-styled mechanical chronograph with tactile engagement, visual charm, and an ST1901 beating proudly in full view, the Sugess 1963 makes a compelling case.

Sugess 1963 Specifications

Sugess 1963 Mechanical Chronograph

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