Pagani Design PD1685 V2 Review – A $100 Automatic Diver with Ceramic Bezel and Sapphire
The Pagani Design PD1685 Version 2 arrives as a subtle revision to a watch that many enthusiasts already recognize for its familiar dive-inspired aesthetic. I reviewed the first version back in 2023, and at first glance the changes here appear modest. The overall concept remains largely the same, though the hands have been updated slightly and the date window has been revised.
Otherwise, the watch retains the core formula that made the earlier version popular: a fully stainless steel construction, a boxed sapphire crystal, a textured dial, and a self-winding automatic movement. Priced at just over one hundred dollars before tax, the PD1685 V2 continues to position itself as an accessible homage-style diver. The question is whether these refinements meaningfully improve the experience on the wrist. And the price remains in the extreme budget range of $110 – $120 before tax. We’ve covered several Pagani Design watches before, and this one continues the brand’s established design language.
Design & Case
Looking closely at the case and proportions of the PD1685 Version 2 reveals a familiar dive watch profile executed with practical detailing. The stainless steel case measures 42 mm in diameter with a thickness of 14.1 mm. On paper that thickness might appear substantial, but the curvature of the case and the way the bracelet integrates with the lugs help the watch sit more planted on the wrist rather than feeling bulky. Lug-to-lug length measures 48.6 mm, aided by inverted end links that keep the effective footprint manageable.
The crown itself measures 6 mm and is a signed screw-in unit. It sits between slightly pinched and polished crown guards that frame the crown without becoming overly aggressive, reinforcing the watch’s diver silhouette. Case finishing combines horizontal brushing along the flanks with polished lug hoods that flare outward slightly. This interplay of brushed and polished surfaces adds visual contrast while maintaining a restrained tool-watch character.
Another design detail appears along the side profile, where the polished tip of the screw-down caseback protrudes slightly beneath the brushed case flank, creating a layered visual effect. Along the bezel edge, wide and deep grooves provide excellent tactile grip. The bezel side sits flush with the case flank, which helps the entire profile feel cohesive and balanced rather than top-heavy. If the character of this watch appeals to you, there are other models with a similar diver design ethos worth exploring.
Movement & Crown
Inside the PD1685 Version 2 sits the Miyota 8215 automatic movement, a well-known entry-level Japanese calibre used widely across the affordable mechanical watch segment. The movement operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. It contains 21 jewels and supports three central hands along with a quick-set date function.
The movement features bidirectional winding, and a full manual wind typically requires around forty turns of the crown. Miyota rates the 8215’s accuracy between minus 20 and plus 40 seconds per day. In real-world usage performance can often land within a tighter range, though exact results will vary from piece to piece.
Operating the crown is straightforward thanks to its 6 mm size and the surrounding crown guards that provide protection without obstructing access. The screw-down design also contributes to the watch’s overall durability and supports its stated water-resistance rating.
Bezel
The PD1685 uses a 120-click unidirectional dive bezel. When first rotating it, the action feels somewhat lighter than what you might encounter on more expensive dive watches. That said, the rotation remains consistent throughout the full cycle and each detent engages clearly.
Once the bezel settles into position it holds firmly, though during rotation there is a slight sense of give between clicks. It is not loose or vague, but attentive users may notice a subtle shift as the bezel moves between detents. From a usability perspective the grip is excellent. The bezel features deep scalloped cutouts rather than traditional knurling, making it easy to grasp and rotate even with minimal effort.
Because the bezel sits flush with the case flanks there is no overhang above the case edge. This design keeps the watch feeling compact and controlled on the wrist while still allowing easy manipulation. Visually the bezel alignment sits slightly off at the 12 o’clock position. The misalignment is minor, though it may stand out to those particularly attentive to symmetry.
Bracelet
The PD1685 Version 2 comes fitted to a five-link stainless steel bracelet measuring 20 mm at the lugs and tapering down to 18 mm at the clasp. The inverted end links again help control the effective lug-to-lug span, maintaining the 48.6 mm length and improving wearability. On my 6½-inch wrist the watch sits comfortably with no overhang.
Finishing on the bracelet is quite refined for this price bracket. The links are primarily brushed, while the outer shoulders on the second and fourth links receive polished accents. This alternating finish introduces visual texture without pushing the bracelet into overly dressy territory.
Construction uses push pins rather than screws, which is typical for watches in this segment. Despite that, tolerances are surprisingly tight. The bracelet shows very little stretch and the articulation between links feels smooth and consistent.
At the clasp you encounter a signed and polished unit featuring a double-pusher release and three micro-adjustment positions. Opening the clasp reveals a fully milled folding wing that adds a sense of structural solidity. Turning the watch over exposes a screw-down caseback with edge specifications engraved around the perimeter. The presentation is straightforward and functional rather than decorative, fitting the overall tool-watch character.
Crystal & Dial
The crystal and dial arrangement is arguably the visual centerpiece of the PD1685 Version 2. The watch uses a boxed and domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The raised crystal profile pairs naturally with the sloped bezel, giving the watch additional visual height while keeping reflections under control. Distortion at sharp viewing angles remains relatively minimal.
Surrounding the crystal is a bezel with a brushed top surface and a high-polish ceramic insert finished in a rich navy blue. White numerals provide clear contrast, and the insert receives full lume treatment across every marking, including the triangle at 12. In low light the entire bezel scale glows bright blue.
The dial itself uses a white textured base featuring a subtle wave pattern that adds visual depth without becoming overly pronounced. Pagani offers the watch in additional dial colors such as black and blue, though the version examined here uses the white variant.
Applied hour markers are edged in a subtle blue chrome finish. The layout includes elongated batons at 3 and 9 o’clock, a double baton at 12, a smaller baton at 6, and circular plots at the remaining positions. A beveled date window sits neatly at the 6 o’clock position. Around the perimeter runs a printed blue minute track that visually ties into the bezel insert.
The updated skeletonized hands feature enlarged angular lume tips. In darkness the watch displays bi-colored lume: bright blue across the bezel markings and green across the dial indices, hands, and the lollipop tip of the seconds hand. The application is even, legible, and remains visible for an extended period.
Summary
The Pagani Design PD1685 Version 2 remains very close to the formula established by the earlier model, with only modest visual updates to the hands and date window. The watch continues to offer a stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel insert, and automatic movement within a package priced just over one hundred dollars before tax. At roughly this level of spend, buyers are spoiled for choice, with several strong competitors available.
On the wrist the dimensions work well thanks to the curved case and inverted end links that keep the effective lug span reasonable. The bracelet feels tighter and more solid than expected for the price, while the dial and bezel combination delivers the most visual impact, particularly with the textured dial and bi-colored lume.
It is not a watch attempting to redefine the category, but rather one that refines a familiar format with practical construction and balanced proportions.
Pagani Design PD1685 V2 Specifications
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Model | Pagani Design PD1685 V2 |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Case Diameter | 42 mm |
| Case Thickness | 14.1 mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 48.6 mm |
| Lug Width | 20 mm |
| Bracelet Taper | 20 mm → 18 mm |
| Crown | 6 mm, screw-down |
| Caseback | Screw-down |
| Crystal | Boxed domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating |
| Bezel | 120-click unidirectional diver bezel |
| Bezel Insert | Ceramic, navy blue with luminous markings |
| Dial | White textured dial with wave pattern |
| Hour Markers | Applied markers: double baton at 12, batons at 3/6/9, circular plots |
| Minute Track | Blue printed minute track |
| Date | 6 o’clock |
| Movement | Miyota 8215 automatic |
| Frequency | 21,600 vph |
| Power Reserve | Approx. 42 hours |
| Jewels | 21 |
| Winding | Bidirectional automatic, manual wind capable |
| Accuracy (rated) | −20 / +40 seconds per day |
| Bracelet | Five-link stainless steel bracelet |
| Clasp | Signed double-pusher clasp with milled folding wing |
| Water Resistance | Not specified in transcript |
| Price (as mentioned) | ~$110 before tax |
