Shanghai SH023 Review – Finally a Budget Original Design Diver and Fully Luminous Bezel
When browsing AliExpress for budget watches, most of what you come across tends to be homage-driven. Some are executed well, but originality is often not the focus. That is what makes something like the Shanghai SH023 immediately stand out. This is not a reinterpretation of something else. It is an original design from a brand with over 70 years of history.
What drew me in here is the combination of that heritage with a genuinely modern execution. You get an in-house movement, a fully luminous bezel, sapphire crystal, and a design that feels deliberate rather than derivative. On paper, it already looks interesting, but in hand, it becomes something else entirely. Priced at $370 before tax. If you’re currently shopping within the diver watches category, there are several comparable models worth considering.
Design & Case
The SH023 comes in at 41 mm in diameter, with a thickness of 12.8 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 47.7 mm. These proportions keep it grounded within familiar diver territory, while the 22 mm lug width gives it a broader stance across the wrist.
The case is finished in black PVD over stainless steel and paired with an orange-accented theme. The overall construction leans heavily into a geometric, tool-focused design language. Visually, it is defined by flat planes and sharp edges. These edges appear sharp, but they are not harsh to the touch.
The mid-case flank is flat, tall, and horizontally brushed, forming a solid band through the case. There are no bevel transitions between the flank and the lug hoods, which keeps the geometry uninterrupted and gives the watch a more industrial, architectural presence. The lugs curve sharply downward, helping to anchor the watch on the wrist despite the width of the case.
Movement & Crown
Inside the SH023 sits the Shanghai 8N24 automatic movement. This is a Miyota-based skeletonized caliber operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, with 21 jewels and a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. It is a true no-date movement, which aligns with the open, skeletonized dial layout.
The crown is a signed, screw-in unit measuring 6.3 mm across. It is positioned between crown guards and features a tall, notched profile, making it easy to grip and operate. The threading feels secure and consistent, reinforcing the tool-oriented nature of the watch.
Water resistance is rated at 200 meters, which aligns with the diver specification and the overall construction of the case.
Bezel
The bezel on the SH023 is handled in a way that immediately sets it apart. There is an additional sapphire layer sitting over the bezel itself, with a white base beneath it. This combination gives the bezel a larger visual footprint, making it appear broader and more expansive around the dial.
The entire bezel is fully luminous, and the intensity is striking. When charged, it emits a strong, even blue glow across the full scale, including the pip at 12.
In operation, the bezel has a heavier feel with noticeable resistance. It requires deliberate input to rotate. The clicks are distinct and metallic, with a muted ratcheting sound. There is strong forward spring tension between detents, which prevents it from settling between positions. Alignment at 12 is precise, with the pip lining up cleanly against the dial.
Bracelet
The SH023 is fitted with a rubber strap rather than a bracelet, and it continues the same contrast-driven design language seen in the case. The strap features a textured top surface with a subtle pattern that adds visual interest beyond a flat rubber finish.
White stitching runs along the top, while an orange underlayer is deliberately exposed along the edges and underside. This orange layer ties directly into the overall color theme of the watch. The keepers are also finished in orange, standing out slightly against the darker strap.
On the underside, the strap is textured and uses a quick-release system, allowing for easy removal and installation without tools. The buckle is a brushed PVD stainless steel unit, signed with the Shanghai logo, and matches the case finish for visual continuity.
Crystal & Dial
The SH023 uses a flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The profile is straightforward, providing a clear and direct view of the dial without distortion. This clarity becomes important given the complexity of what sits beneath it.
At the outer edge, the bezel sits under a sapphire layer, which changes how the watch is perceived visually. It appears to expand outward, giving the dial a broader presence. The bezel itself remains fully luminous, creating a strong visual effect in low light.
The dial is built in layers. At the center, there is a skeletonized structure that allows visibility into the movement. The balance wheel is visible, adding constant motion to the display. Surrounding this is an orange chapter ring with a white minute scale, acting as a boundary between the open center and the outer layout.
Inside that boundary, a black inner ring carries the applied indices. These indices are edged in dark chrome, with elongated batons at 3, 6, 9, and 12, and shorter rectangular markers at the remaining positions. The handset follows the same approach, with hour and minute hands edged in dark chrome, while the seconds hand introduces an orange accent with a lume pip.
In low light, the watch becomes more unified. The bezel, indices, and hands all emit a strong blue lume, bringing clarity back to the layered dial.
Summary
The Shanghai SH023 is a diver that stands apart through originality and execution. It combines a long-standing brand heritage with a design that feels modern, deliberate, and distinct. The case architecture is bold and consistent, while the skeletonized dial adds depth and movement.
The fully luminous bezel is a defining feature, both visually and functionally, and the in-house movement reinforces the watch’s identity. There are many elements here, but they are brought together in a cohesive way.
For a budget watch, it offers something different. Not just in specification, but in how those elements are presented and integrated into a single design. In this sub $500 segment of the market, small differences in execution often matter more than raw specifications.
Verdict
This is for the buyer who wants a diver that feels visually unconventional without giving up core tool-watch fundamentals. It makes the most sense for an enthusiast who already owns more standard options and wants something with stronger personality, especially if lume, bezel presence, and a more mechanical-looking dial experience matter.
The trade-off is obvious: this is not a quiet, versatile everyday pick. If you prefer cleaner, more traditional divers, this will feel too assertive. This piece shares its personality with several watches that emphasize unique styling and premium specs – for example the San Martin SN0148.
Specifications — Shanghai SH023
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Model | Shanghai SH023 |
| Case Material | Stainless steel with black PVD coating |
| Case Diameter | 41 mm |
| Case Thickness | 12.8 mm |
| Lug-to-Lug | 47.7 mm |
| Lug Width | 22 mm |
| Crown | 6.3 mm, screw-in, signed |
| Caseback | Screw-down caseback |
| Water Resistance | 200 m |
| Crystal | Flat sapphire with anti-reflective coating |
| Bezel | Fully luminous bezel with sapphire layer |
| Bezel Operation | Unidirectional |
| Dial | Skeletonized, multi-layer |
| Dial Features | Orange chapter ring, white minute scale |
| Hour Markers | Applied indices with dark chrome edging |
| Hands | Dark chrome edged hands with orange seconds hand |
| Lume | Blue lume on bezel, indices, and hands |
| Movement | Shanghai 8N24 automatic (Miyota-based) |
| Frequency | 21,600 vph |
| Jewels | 21 |
| Power Reserve | ~42 hours |
| Strap | Rubber strap with quick release |
| Buckle | Brushed PVD stainless steel, signed |
| Price | $370 before tax |
