Tandorio FXD Review — A Titanium Tool Watch with Real Military Intent

The FXD designation has become shorthand for a very specific kind of dive watch: fixed lugs, uncompromising functionality, and a design language rooted in military use rather than recreational diving. Tandorio’s FXD enters that space with clear intent. This is not a reinterpretation or a casual nod—it’s a watch that directly embraces the fixed-lug, pass-through-strap philosophy and builds around it with conviction.

Sent by AliExpress for review, the Tandorio FXD immediately communicates its purpose through scale, material choice, and restraint. Titanium construction, a matte ceramic bezel, and a fully tool-oriented dial set the tone. There’s no attempt to dress this up or soften the edges. On the wrist, it feels purposeful and lightweight despite its size, with proportions that suggest real-world usability rather than desk-bound styling. While its inspiration is obvious, the execution feels confident enough to stand on its own. This is a watch designed for function first, with finishing choices that quietly support that mission rather than distract from it. You may find other Tandorio reviews interesting as well.

Check Price

Design & Case

The Tandorio FXD is unapologetically large. The case measures 42 mm in diameter, 13.1 mm thick, with a substantial 53 mm lug-to-lug and a 22 mm lug width. Fixed strap bars define the silhouette, meaning this watch is designed exclusively for one-piece pass-through straps. On paper, these numbers suggest an imposing presence, and visually that’s true—but ergonomics tell a more nuanced story.

The case is crafted from titanium, finished in a matte, slightly sand-blasted texture that reflects the raw tone of the alloy rather than a painted or coated surface. This keeps glare to a minimum and reinforces the tool-watch identity. Despite the size, the case head weighs just 83 grams, which dramatically changes how it wears. The lugs feature a sharp downward curve, allowing the watch to wrap the wrist naturally rather than sit flat and wide.

Viewed in profile, the mid-case is tall and slab-sided, but a gentle curvature from center to lug prevents it from feeling blocky. Adding refinement are single-width chamfered bevels running along the lugs. These polished transitions soften the industrial form without undermining its rugged character. At three o’clock sits a 6 mm screw-down crown, flanked by pinched, sculpted crown guards that feel deliberately shaped rather than bulky. The result is a case that balances raw military utility with thoughtful execution.

We have reviewed the Thorn SHY033 with a sand blasted stainless steel finish and that stealthy look is so similar to this titanium finish.

Movement & Crown

Powering the FXD is the Seiko NH35 automatic movement, a Japanese self-winding caliber operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour with a 42-hour power reserve. Tandorio also offers an optional upgrade to the PT5000 high-beat movement for an additional cost, though the reviewed example uses the NH35. This choice aligns with the watch’s tool-first ethos: reliable, easy to service, and well understood.

Crown interaction is one of the FXD’s highlights. Unscrewing the crown reveals wide, clean thread engagement that feels deliberate and secure. As the crown disengages, it springs outward under internal tube tension, delivering a tactile, spring-loaded response that feels engineered rather than incidental. In the first position, manual winding is smooth and familiar, aided by Seiko’s Magic Lever system, which provides efficient bidirectional winding.

Pulling to the second position lands on a ghost date detent, expected given the dateless configuration. A further pull engages time setting, and here the movement feels particularly solid. There’s no crown wobble, no backlash, and no hesitation when positioning the hands. Once set, the crown screws back down with consistent resistance, reinforcing confidence in the watch’s 200 m water-resistance rating.

Bezel

As with any purpose-built military diver, the bezel plays a central role. The FXD features a 120-click unidirectional bezel with a vertical coin-edge grip that slightly overhangs the case for improved traction. Rotation resistance is uniform throughout the full cycle, giving the bezel a sense of controlled weight rather than lightness.

Each click produces a muted, metallic ratchet sound—not sharp, not hollow, but dampened and reassuring. Detent force is moderate, allowing precise adjustment without excessive effort. Notably, there is perceptible freedom between clicks: when stopped mid-rotation, the bezel remains where it’s left rather than snapping back into alignment. There’s no rattle or lateral play, but there is some axial play, suggesting a click spring that isn’t preloaded to force automatic centering.

The insert itself is matte ceramic, intentionally avoiding gloss or reflection. Markings are crisp and subdued, with lume present only on the pip at 12. While a lumed 15- or 20-minute track might improve low-light functionality, the current execution maintains a stealthy, distraction-free appearance consistent with the watch’s military intent.

Valcro Strap

There is no bracelet option for the FXD, by design. Fixed strap bars dictate the use of one-piece pass-through straps, reinforcing the watch’s military DNA. The included nylon strap with Velcro hardware suits the watch well, keeping overall weight low while providing secure, adjustable fit.

The strap works in harmony with the sharply downturned lugs, allowing the large case to sit more comfortably than its dimensions suggest. This setup prioritizes function and reliability over variety, and it feels entirely appropriate for the watch’s intended role.

Crystal & Dial

Covering the dial is a flat synthetic sapphire crystal, seated just slightly above the matte ceramic bezel. While the listing does not specify anti-reflective treatment, a faint green sheen appears under sharp angles, indicating at least a light AR coating.

Beneath the crystal, a sloped navy-blue rehaut printed with the minute track draws the eye inward like a focus ring. The dial itself is flat matte blue, completely non-reflective and color-matched to the bezel. This creates a cohesive, clinical aesthetic focused entirely on legibility.

Indices are applied and stark white, with rectangular markers at 3, 6, and 9, a downward-pointing triangle at 12, and square plots elsewhere. There are no polished surrounds or chrome accents—contrast comes purely from shape and color. The handset follows suit, remaining highly legible and free of unnecessary decoration.

Branding is restrained: the Tandorio logo beneath 12, with Automatic and 200 m printed quietly above six. There is no date window, preserving symmetry and clarity. Lume is green, vivid, and generously applied, charging quickly and glowing with strong intensity—exactly what you’d expect from a tool watch derived from military specifications.

Summary

The Tandorio FXD stands out as one of the most convincing FXD-style homages currently available. Titanium construction, fixed lugs, a disciplined dial, and a well-executed bezel combine to create a watch that feels purpose-built rather than styled for effect. While there are nuances—such as bezel behavior between clicks—the overall execution is confident and cohesive. Especially with consideration of the budget $130-ish price before tax. Do explore other diver watches in this budget price range.

What’s most impressive is how well everything works together. The lightweight titanium case offsets the large footprint, the fixed-strap setup reinforces the military identity, and the restrained finishing keeps focus on function. This feels like a step up for Tandorio—a watch that doesn’t just look the part, but genuinely earns it through thoughtful design and execution. For those drawn to the FXD aesthetic and seeking a serious tool watch without excess, this is a compelling option.

Tandorio FXD Specifications

Check Availability