AV86 1564 Chronodate Automatic Review – A Vintage Calendar With Double Sapphire

The AV86 1564 Chronodate Automatic takes a traditional dress watch and introduces a level of functionality rarely associated with such restrained styling. Alongside the time, it displays the day, date, month and a 24-hour indicator, all arranged within a distinctly vintage-inspired dial.

Coming from Copenhagen-based AV86, the Chronodate combines an original design with the Japanese Miyota 9120 high-beat automatic movement, double-domed sapphire crystal and Italian leather strap. At approximately €675, or around $750, it occupies a more considered price bracket. Having received this watch from AV86 for review, I was particularly interested in how successfully the brand had balanced its multiple displays with the refinement expected of a dress watch. Anyone considering spending around this amount should take the time to compare a few closely matched alternatives in the sub $1000 price bracket.

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Design & Case

The AV86 1564 Chronodate Automatic has a 40mm stainless steel case measuring 12.9mm thick and 49mm lug-to-lug. Although the proportions are relatively substantial for a traditional dress watch, much of the height comes from the prominent domed crystal and the layered construction beneath it.

The case flanks are horizontally brushed, with polished 45-degree bevels transitioning into vertically brushed lug surfaces. These contrasting finishes introduce subtle variations in reflected light, giving the case a more refined appearance without relying on excessive decoration.

The lugs are relatively long and taper sharply downward towards their tips. Their almost teardrop-like profile references older dress watch designs while allowing the strap to follow the wrist more closely.

Looking at the case from the side, the architecture becomes clearer. The lip of the snap-on caseback is visible beneath the brushed central section, while a polished fixed bezel rises above it to support the domed crystal.

The result is a carefully layered case that draws on vintage design language while retaining a clean, contemporary finish. The case architecture and dial treatment place this within a recognizable family of functional dress watch designs.

Movement & Crown

Inside the Chronodate is the Japanese Miyota 9120, a self-winding automatic movement from the Citizen Group. It features 26 jewels, a 40-hour power reserve and operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4Hz. The movement has a stated accuracy of -10 to +30 seconds per day.

The 9120 accommodates the watch’s multiple calendar displays, with each adjustment handled through the crown or a dedicated pusher. The signed push-pull crown measures 7.4mm across and has a deeply notched grip.

A polished pusher positioned above the crown advances the month indicator at 3 o’clock. Pulling the crown to its first position allows the remaining calendar adjustments: turning it upwards advances the date between 4 and 5 o’clock, while turning it downwards changes the day displayed at 9.

The second crown position adjusts the central hour and minute hands. A 24-hour register at 6 o’clock follows the main time.

With its snap-on caseback and push-pull crown, the watch carries 50 metres of water resistance, which I would treat as splash protection rather than swimming capability.

Bezel

The Chronodate uses a polished fixed bezel that forms an important part of the case’s layered construction. Rather than introducing another functional element, it provides a clean transition between the brushed stainless steel case and the prominently curved sapphire crystal.

Viewed from the side, the bezel rises above the central case body and establishes the foundation for the crystal’s rounded profile. This arrangement contributes considerably to the watch’s vintage character, particularly when the light catches the transition between the polished bezel and the curved glass.

The contrast is especially effective against the horizontal brushing of the case flanks. The bezel introduces a brighter reflective surface without overwhelming the more restrained finishing elsewhere.

I particularly like how the design avoids making the bezel unnecessarily elaborate. With several calendar displays already occupying the dial, a simple polished surround feels appropriate. It frames the dial and allows the crystal’s shape to become the dominant visual element when the watch is viewed from an angle. Collectors already familiar with AV86 may notice recurring themes throughout this watch.

Strap

The AV86 Chronodate comes fitted with an Italian leather strap, and its quality is immediately apparent when handled. The material feels soft, supple and substantial, with the natural character associated with more traditional leather watch straps.

It is an appropriate choice for the Chronodate’s vintage-inspired design, providing a restrained complement to the polished and brushed stainless steel case. The leather has enough flexibility to follow the wrist comfortably, working particularly well with the downward taper of the lugs.

The strap measures 20mm at the lugs and uses quick-release spring bars, making changes straightforward without requiring additional tools. This also gives the watch some versatility should a different strap be preferred.

On the underside, one section carries a genuine leather stamp, while the other features AV86 branding. The buckle is a milled construction, signed with the AV86 logo at its tip.

Taken together, the leather, hardware and finishing feel consistent with the Chronodate’s positioning as a more refined dress watch.

Crystal & Dial

The double-domed sapphire crystal features an anti-reflective coating and creates a pronounced, almost bubble-like silhouette. Beneath it, a dark blue outer track with fine white graduations surrounds a contrasting white minute chapter ring with black markings.

The main dial has a coarse, textured gradient-blue finish. It begins with an almost icy-blue shade near the centre before deepening towards a richer, more saturated blue around the edges. Its granular surface produces small shadows as light moves across it, introducing depth beyond the colour transition alone.

The applied hour markers are small polished spherical studs rather than conventional batons. Their raised surfaces catch individual points of light, adding another layer of dimensionality.

Despite the amount of information displayed, the layout remains coherent. The month appears at 3 o’clock, the day at 9, the 24-hour indicator at 6 and the date between 4 and 5.

There is no luminous material on the dial or hands. Instead, the emphasis is on texture, contrast and the careful arrangement of the calendar displays.

Summary

The AV86 1564 Chronodate Automatic is an interesting interpretation of the complicated dress watch. Rather than allowing its calendar functions to dominate the design, AV86 has incorporated them into a dial that feels deliberately organised and visually balanced.

The textured gradient-blue surface, polished spherical indices and layered chapter rings are particularly effective. Combined with the domed crystal and carefully finished case, they give the watch a sense of depth that becomes more apparent as the viewing angle changes.

The Miyota 9120 is also a meaningful part of the package. Its high-beat operation and multiple calendar functions provide more mechanical interest than a conventional three-hand automatic.

At approximately €675, the Chronodate is certainly not inexpensive. Nevertheless, I can see the appeal in its original design, considered finishing and the functionality offered by the movement.

For me, its strongest quality is the way it brings several complications together without sacrificing the character of a traditional dress watch.

AV86 1564 Chronodate Automatic Specifications